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NEVER LUBE TRAILER BEARINGS
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DRR Sportsman
posted
I took a look at my trailer brakes,and I don't like the looks of my Never Lube trailer bearings.I think I am going to replace them.They seem to be leaking and the outer wheel bearing has separated from the cartridge.The average cost per bearing is about $150 from most trailer supply places.The bearing is made by Timken and I believe is a JRM4249-90ua1.But from what I am reading,the actual trailer bearing made for Dexter has a stainless steel seal as opposed to a rubber seal.
I was just wondering if anybody had a more economical source for the correct bearing for 42mm Never Lube.
And just a word of advice for Never Lube owners.Just because they are Never Lube,don't assume that they will last for ever and ever.Take a look at them once in awhile.
 
Posts: 333 | Location: Elgin,IL | Registered: February 08, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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My Classic Terminator has them.
It's a 2002 or 2003

I replaced all 4 cartridges not to long after I bought the trailer around 2007

None were leaking or loose or made noise.

I keep the old ones in my trailer along with the tools to change them if needed. Just a big socket and a big snap ring remover. They are pretty lightly pressed in the hub so if the hub is not damaged hopefully I could change one on the road....

I bought the replacements probably from REDNECK trailer supply.

You can usually just Google search something and find various suppliers and their prices.....

I have not had any problem with them.....


Modern vehicles have the same thing up front....Sealed bearings...and they go many miles usually...

The only thing that usually kills them is water getting inside them.....rust starts.....

My pickup had one side fail from exactly that scenario.....

One work van came apart on the inside......that was probably the only failure I ever saw on sealed hubs in many years and many trucks...
 
Posts: 1519 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of BarneyB
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I would check a bearing house like Applied Technology or something local like that.


Blaster Chemical Co.
www.abruzziracing.com
www.moserengineering.com
www.houseofpayneperformance.com
WiredTwoWin race car wiring
J & J Performance
Trick Flow Specialties



 
Posts: 2403 | Location: Wadsworth, Ohio | Registered: December 12, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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http://www.easternmarine.com/d...-cartridge-03-073-03

I'm bored.....waiting on UPS for parts to fix an Onan 7KW gas unit....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU2ZnK1RxXE

One large spindle nut pulls it off.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDPXnEQVBtw

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,
 
Posts: 1519 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Thanks for all of the info,but I read that you need an industrial press to get these bearings out.They are lightly tapped in?
 
Posts: 333 | Location: Elgin,IL | Registered: February 08, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I did mine in a std garage press and felt like in an emergency you could use a soft hammer and a punch or socket to tap them out or in....

No way they have anything more than just a slight interference fit.....
 
Posts: 1519 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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