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New or Reman Brake Calipers
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DRR Sportsman
posted
On my build I'm at the point of brake set up. This is going to be a 6.50 1/8 mile bracket S-10. I'm trying to decide if its worth the extra bucks to go with a quality remand brake caliper or new. Need some feed back on others experience. Thanks
 
Posts: 700 | Location: At the beach | Registered: August 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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OEM GM brakes have no business being on a race car no mind rebuilt calipers.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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The stock S10 front brakes are pretty small, but will work, just keep an eye on the rotors for signs of heat distress.

Reman calipers will be fine. Some rebuilt parts I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole...…….


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3100 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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You’ll remember the $ you saved by staying with oem brakes or worse yet going with rebuilt if/when a caliper locks up at the stripe.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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I’m with Ed on this.


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5310 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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When a cast iron caliper "locks up" it is almost always the rubber brake hose at fault, not the caliper.

Aluminum calipers corrode in the bores causing the piston(s) to hang up. See it all the time on GM and Ford trucks.


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3100 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
posted Hide Post
Rubber brake hoses have no business being on a race car either.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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Suggested calipers? Chevy S 10 on front, 8.8 ford rear?
 
Posts: 700 | Location: At the beach | Registered: August 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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Reman GM metric calipers. If they won't stop a 6.50 car there's something else wrong. Replace all of the hoses and lines. Use the right size MC and make sure you have a pedal stop and be sure there is no possible way for the MC rod to get pulled out of the back of the MC and drop out.
 
Posts: 1462 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Years ago....68 Firebird really low 10.0 car, had original brake set up. I know. Anyway I bent that solid steel actuating rod in the mc just trying to not cross starting line on burnout. No way I’d want that to happen on the other end of track. All new strange brakes the following weekend
 
Posts: 58 | Location: st louis mo | Registered: April 15, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Lenny5160
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Huh. Factory original disc fronts and drum rears on my ‘70 Nova haven’t missed a beat in 25 years of racing. Replaced the master cylinder a couple times. Maybe they don’t make ‘em like they used to?

I do have a complete 9” rear with discs to slide in one of these days.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3160 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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