Has anyone tried these on a light door car? 2680 with driver. Also I know they say not to run rim screws but I have seen some folks using them. Any input would be appreciated.

From what I hear never run screws with a radial FWIW, and I would'nt call 2680 a light car.

quote:

Originally posted by HR3377:
From what I hear never run screws with a radial FWIW, and I would'nt call 2680 a light car.

I run rim screws on my radials w/no problem and op's car 1s 1,000 lbs lighter than mine FWIW.

Thought the rims screws pushed the bead away from wheel..per MT

A friend bolted a set of bracket radials on a low 5.60 sbc doorslammer and now has a middle to low 5.50 doorslammer. He claims they're better than bias, consistently. Although it's cool in Florida this time of year keep in mind. He likes em though, claims they're fast.

No screws they work fine on a well prepped track. If they spin it's over. Should see an improvement in et and mph.

My old man has them on a back half 70 nova. Fiberglass doors and front end with le an everywhere. Fairly certain he said it’s 2600 lbs. he claims it tries to walk around sometime at the finish line but i don’t think he’s running enough air in it. My buddy has some on his 3200 lb molar and he loves them. No screws in either car

We glue 275 radials on this one, no beadlocks. Been 5 teens at only 131 mph with a run of the mill 23 degree bracket race caliber 427 sbc 700 lift cam @ 2950 lbs, plate system. Runs pretty decent for the first 100 - 150 feet, glue works fine.

What glue?

Rubber gloves and up to you, a paper painters mask. Brake clean both surfaces, brush on and let setup before setting the bead. Tire won't budge on the bead.

Clean off excess with thinner

I used the 10.5 x 29.5 PBR all this season. Pretty good tire, no real complaints.

When my car ran Ultra, on the 275 Pro/10" wheel, car ran 5.0's with a 1.12 60' at 3025 lbs. No screw, no beadlocks, no GLUE. Just make sure the wheel and tire are clean and install DRY, no tire mount lube.

I use hairspray on the beads after cleaning rim and bead with acetone to stop a slick from rotating.

I tried the hair spray, seems to work pretty good. Tires moved about 1/2" in the first two passes then stayed put.

Anyone run this tire on a 12" wide rim ???

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Anyone run this tire on a 12" wide rim ???

Yes.

quote:

quote:Originally posted by HS professor:Anyone run this tire on a 12" wide rim ???

Yes.

How do they work/look ??? I'm assuming on your beadlock wheels ?? I'm usually not a big fan of the flat sidewall look, but I have to buy wheels and don't want to limit my tire choices. A 29.5 PBR would be my smallest tire consideration so buying a 10" rim doesn't make much sense.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:

quote:

quote:Originally posted by HS professor:Anyone run this tire on a 12" wide rim ???

Yes.

How do they work/look ??? I'm assuming on your beadlock wheels ?? I'm usually not a big fan of the flat sidewall look, but I have to buy wheels and don't want to limit my tire choices. A 29.5 PBR would be my smallest tire consideration so buying a 10" rim doesn't make much sense.

They work well. My car us detuned to run a class called 8.50 index, car will typically 60' anywhere from 1.17 to 1.20 depending on the tuneup, but would 60' quicker if I opened the plate.

No complaints, works equally as well as the 315 Pro I ran prior to the PBR.

Here's a couple pics of varying angles, etc.











That said, Hoosier is coming out with a 10.5 x 29.5 Drag Bracket Radial with a softer sidewall than the M/T. I'm interested in trying the Hoosier to see how it compares. The class I run doesn't get sticky radial prep so I've had to set the car up to get down what I would call a marginal prep starting line. Has worked pretty well this season, but have spun a couple times when the start line went away or had big enough bald spots to where it was hard to move the car over out of the bare concrete.