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How much start retard do you use?
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DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Bad News: 7AL3 with it's 20 degree has ruined more flexplates and starter drives than you can shake a stick at.


The older red 7230 7al3 has a built in none adjustable timing retard of 25* until 1300 rpm when activated. The newer black 7330 7al3 is adjustable with the chip and turns off when 600 rpm is reached and will not re-enable once running. Cycling the ignition Off / On resets this feature.
 
Posts: 2435 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Bad News
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Yup, that one. 25 degree toof shredder.
 
Posts: 868 | Location: ft laud | Registered: September 02, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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If you need to retard the timing during cranking, then fix your issues so you don't have to.


strangemagicperformance.com
oldsperformanceproducts.com




WD dealer for just about all your performance needs.
 
Posts: 1604 | Location: Suffern, NY | Registered: November 03, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Strange Magic:
If you need to retard the timing during cranking, then fix your issues so you don't have to.


So if you have an ignition system that easily allows you to program in some start retard and it works like a charm,, this don't count?

Sounds like its a fix to me. Big Grin

Start retard is not evil you know...
 
Posts: 2139 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Any issues retarding timing with an LS Engine? My 408 is 12.5:1 but I can get the ignition box to set the timing at any RPM. Just thought it would be easier on the everything to have it retarded until 1000 RPM
 
Posts: 33 | Location: Xenia | Registered: June 10, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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By having the timing retarded during cranking, actually will prolong or delay how quick the engine will start.

If you feel that your engine cranks faster due to the spark occurring later, then here are the root causes of the issues, in the following order:

1. Your cylinder pressure from the intake opening and closing events are wrong and excessive. This has nothing to do with static compression.

2. You shop in wally world or alike, for the cheapest battery you can find, because you're an f'n cheap fvck.

3. If you're engine warrants a 16V battery, then you should have one in your ride. example, big engine on injected alky which is a prime candidate for a 16v. 16v is better all around then any 14 volt system, period!

4. you've heard friends that do it, so why not go with the monkey see monkey do approach.

5. You probably also retard the timing while motoring down the race track. See 3 above.


strangemagicperformance.com
oldsperformanceproducts.com




WD dealer for just about all your performance needs.
 
Posts: 1604 | Location: Suffern, NY | Registered: November 03, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Andy, Thanks for the help. Bet you and Ed enjoy each other
 
Posts: 33 | Location: Xenia | Registered: June 10, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Strange Magic:
By having the timing retarded during cranking, actually will prolong or delay how quick the engine will start.

If you feel that your engine cranks faster due to the spark occurring later, then here are the root causes of the issues, in the following order:

1. Your cylinder pressure from the intake opening and closing events are wrong and excessive. This has nothing to do with static compression.

2. You shop in wally world or alike, for the cheapest battery you can find, because you're an f'n cheap fvck.

3. If you're engine warrants a 16V battery, then you should have one in your ride. example, big engine on injected alky which is a prime candidate for a 16v. 16v is better all around then any 14 volt system, period!

4. you've heard friends that do it, so why not go with the monkey see monkey do approach.

5. You probably also retard the timing while motoring down the race track. See 3 above.


Strange

You didn't answer my simple question.

Don't need a lesson in static vs dynamic compression/cylinder pressures, but thanks!

For normal bracket stuff, a properly install 12v system will start anything! Nothing wrong with 16v either.

I don't know any monkeys,, well at least that I listen too!

And lastly, I do use down track retards when spraying NOS!

Anymore words of wisdom?
 
Posts: 2139 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Andy, Thanks for the help. Bet you and Ed enjoy each other


Who?

Top, whatever makes you happy is fine with me. I could care less what you, or any others do with their junk, although my post was not intended for those like yourself, it was intended for those who want, and are willing to do the right thing. Razz


strangemagicperformance.com
oldsperformanceproducts.com




WD dealer for just about all your performance needs.
 
Posts: 1604 | Location: Suffern, NY | Registered: November 03, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Strange Magic:
quote:
Andy, Thanks for the help. Bet you and Ed enjoy each other




Top, whatever makes you happy is fine with me. I could care less what you, or any others do with their junk, although my post was not intended for those like yourself, it was intended for those who want, and are willing to do the right thing. Razz


Strange, to correct your above statement
"Do the right thing in your mind only"

You still did not answer my question BTW. Just avoiding it as usual.

Carry on!
 
Posts: 2139 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I pull 10 degrees until 700 rpm. I could probably go without since installing a 16 volt battery. Might sound silly but the car runs better with the 16 volt. I will never go back to 12 volts
 
Posts: 22 | Location: chicago | Registered: July 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TomR
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I was having a problem with mine and would have never found it without the grid, data logging.

At idle, I had @14 volts, perfect. Going down track with all accessories on, voltage would drop below 11, sometimes 10. I had a 100 amp alternator on it and it couldn't keep up with the demands of a waterpump drive, fan, led gauges, delay box, electric shifter, ignition system and nitrous solenoids.

Swapped the alternator for a new one, now I have 13.5v with everything on going down track and straightened the car out.

Wonder if ollies69 might have something similar going on.


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 734 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom Reyer:
I was having a problem with mine and would have never found it without the grid, data logging.

At idle, I had @14 volts, perfect. Going down track with all accessories on, voltage would drop below 11, sometimes 10. I had a 100 amp alternator on it and it couldn't keep up with the demands of a waterpump drive, fan, led gauges, delay box, electric shifter, ignition system and nitrous solenoids.

Swapped the alternator for a new one, now I have 13.5v with everything on going down track and straightened the car out.

Wonder if ollies69 might have something similar going on.

Racepak reads 17.5 volts with an alternator going down the track.
 
Posts: 22 | Location: chicago | Registered: July 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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