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valve adj . question
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DRR Pro
Picture of W.A.O. 111
posted
do it hot ? . . .or do it cold ? . .i forget . boring



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Posts: 451 | Location: chiefland fl. | Registered: March 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
Picture of 1320racer
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cold, EO/IC


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Posts: 8742 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of W.A.O. 111
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thankyou sir.



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Posts: 451 | Location: chiefland fl. | Registered: March 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I believe the specs on cam card are for motor hot but could be wrong. If you set them hot then let motor cool and check them then you know what the cold lash should be. Just my opinion but I am no expert.
 
Posts: 2032 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by W.A.O. 111:
do it hot ? . . .or do it cold ? . .i forget . boring


The first time only has one option. Tongue

Curtis

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CURTIS REED,


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Posts: 718 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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with aluminum heads some times you subtract .010
 
Posts: 11 | Location: EASTERN NC | Registered: April 05, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of The Bozman
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Per every cam card out there it states doing it hot. Best thing to do is do it correct the first time and do it hot, then let everything cool all the way down to stone cold, then go back and measure them.

With aluminium heads you will most likely see around a .004 difference, with Alumi heads and block you can see as much at .015. In extremely cold I have seen some motors where there was no lash left when it got in the teens.


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Posts: 2805 | Location: Rockwall, Texas | Registered: June 25, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Cold Like Ed said


"Just Shut Up and Race"

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Posts: 769 | Location: Va.Beach .Va | Registered: August 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
Picture of 1320racer
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I've been setting my lash cold, using the EO/IC method since dinosaurs roamed the earth. You can check them hot and adjust if necessary.

That said, most bracket racers lash is loose by at least .003 because they set by feel rather than go/no-go.


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Posts: 8742 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Most Cam manufacturers recommend setting the valve lash hot. There are too many variables to say that simply subtracting .010 from the hot settings will be correct for your engine. This is an excersise that you have to do with your specific combination/engine.

The problem in many cases is warming the engine while your neighbors are calling the Police to complain about the noise. The noise really pisses the Cops offs. The best suggestion is what Bozman suggested, set them hot (EO/IC) while at the track then check them after the engine has cooled off. Write that number on a white board so you don't forget the cold settings figures. Everyone wins, you, the neighbors and God Bless them even the Cops.

Bob
 
Posts: 2122 | Location: Lakeside, Ca | Registered: February 15, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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If aluminum block better to do hot amazing the differences you'll see throughout the year doing them cold....
 
Posts: 513 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Mike Beck
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quote:
Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Most Cam manufacturers recommend setting the valve lash hot. There are too many variables to say that simply subtracting .010 from the hot settings will be correct for your engine. This is an excersise that you have to do with your specific combination/engine.

The problem in many cases is warming the engine while your neighbors are calling the Police to complain about the noise. The noise really pisses the Cops offs. The best suggestion is what Bozman suggested, set them hot (EO/IC) while at the track then check them after the engine has cooled off. Write that number on a white board so you don't forget the cold settings figures. Everyone wins, you, the neighbors and God Bless them even the Cops.

Bob


My SBC with Dart iron block and aluminum heads is .006 difference hot to cold. I will set them cold, after a few passes pull a cover off and check a few hot, and that is how I arrived at the .006 for my application.

Now it is easy to set them cold and not worry about it. I use the LSM adjuster wrench, with that I can actually set the lash CORRECTLY and not have it vary +-.002 or so throughout the engine. The go/no-go method is certainly the best way to do it and I have two sets of feeler gauges setup to do this. One with the measurement I want, the other too thick and should not fit.
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: South River, NJ | Registered: June 19, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 68TSCAMARO
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Set them hot first time . Recheck clearance when cold . Record cold reading and use it when cold in future checks ....
 
Posts: 869 | Location: middle georgia | Registered: July 20, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Mike Beck
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Dirtpimp, at sometime everyone has a new cam/engine that needs to be set to some spec before it can even be started..........
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: South River, NJ | Registered: June 19, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of CH.CRAFT
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Beck:
quote:
Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Most Cam manufacturers recommend setting the valve lash hot. There are too many variables to say that simply subtracting .010 from the hot settings will be correct for your engine. This is an excersise that you have to do with your specific combination/engine.

A LITTLE TIP FOR YOU: K-D TOOLS MAKES A GO, NO-GO FEELER GUAGE SET #2424. FOR INSTANCE THE .014" IS GROUND TO .012" ON THE TIP 5/8"BACK FROM THE FRONT EDGE, I USE THAT ONE TO SET MY INTAKES AT .012" COLD AND IF THE .014" WILL GO IT IS TOO LOOSE. I HOPE THEY STILL MAKE IT BECAUSE I BOUGHT MINE BACK WHEN DINASOURS ROAMED THE EARTH. MY POST DID NOT COME OUT WHERE I INTEND TO.


The problem in many cases is warming the engine while your neighbors are calling the Police to complain about the noise. The noise really pisses the Cops offs. The best suggestion is what Bozman suggested, set them hot (EO/IC) while at the track then check them after the engine has cooled off. Write that number on a white board so you don't forget the cold settings figures. Everyone wins, you, the neighbors and God Bless them even the Cops.

Bob


My SBC with Dart iron block and aluminum heads is .006 difference hot to cold. I will set them cold, after a few passes pull a cover off and check a few hot, and that is how I arrived at the .006 for my application.

Now it is easy to set them cold and not worry about it. I use the LSM adjuster wrench, with that I can actually set the lash CORRECTLY and not have it vary +-.002 or so throughout the engine. The go/no-go method is certainly the best way to do it and I have two sets of feeler gauges setup to do this. One with the measurement I want, the other too thick and should not fit.


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Posts: 167 | Location: SOUTH LOUISIANA | Registered: December 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of 68TSCAMARO
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quote:
needs to be set to some spec before it can even be started.

Dayum that's amazing ! Rolling
 
Posts: 869 | Location: middle georgia | Registered: July 20, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of SonnyJames
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Hot. Not driveway hot. Come back from pass and do one side, make a pass do the other. Wait 1 day then check cold and record. THEN you can do them cold.
 
Posts: 678 | Location: Consistently researching inconsistencies | Registered: September 04, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of wideopen231
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Rarely would I say this but agree with Ed.

Taking away .010 works and there is no exact number that is going to make 50 hp differance. Most of the time you can change lash up and down and find very little gain,unless cam is off good amount in duration.Not saying there is not a cpl horses to be gained just not a bunch.Again unless cam is off for your combo.

Cam card is just good starting point


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Posts: 1058 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of W.A.O. 111
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steel heads . the card doesnt say hot/cold . . just E/.016 - I/.016 .

it aint a piano Razz



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Posts: 451 | Location: chiefland fl. | Registered: March 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR All Star
Picture of 1320racer
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Set them to .014 cold using the EO/IC method and go no go and you're done.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on track proven performance, on the web since 1998.

Support our President! Support our Troops! Support our economy! Buy American!!

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 8742 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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