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DRR Pro |
How much weight? When i do it adds it to the front left Im at LF 709 RF 604 LR 579 RR 552 Brian Mollison 2009 RaceTech Dragster 2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion 2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion 2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion 2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion 2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up 2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Or LF 715 RF 596 LR 571 RR 561 Thats race ready on the starting line Well I’m leaving it here at LF 689 RF 603 LR 586 RR 547 IM going to try this and see how it works I also shortened the left bars 1.5 flats to square rearThis message has been edited. Last edited by: 00 DEAD ON, Brian Mollison 2009 RaceTech Dragster 2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion 2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion 2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion 2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion 2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up 2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion | |||
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DRR Pro |
Needs to be about 50 lbs heavier on right rear. Watch the tire wear. It will tell the story. Matt Ward | |||
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| DRR Pro |
This is a 5.40’s-5.50’s car. If that makes a difference in set up Brian Mollison 2009 RaceTech Dragster 2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion 2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion 2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion 2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion 2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up 2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Quick trip down 95 to North Carolina, Jr Carter- OUTLAW Motorsports will be the best money you can spend, guaranteed. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
If you have access to scales, as mentioned above, get the RR roughly 50 lbs heavier than the LR. Since you don't have anti-roll, accomplish this by turning the top right 4 link bar to the left (the direction you want the car to adjust to). Mike Boehner | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Since this is a 5.40-5.50 door car invest in a anti-roll bar, start with one flat of pre-load in the right adjuster (make it longer) but no more than two flats. In the long run the money you spend on a anti- roll bar will be worth the investment. They are inexpensive, easy to install and very effective. You can continue to add weight to the RR wheel by adding pre-load in the top right four link bar (turning it inward) to the point where the car may want to become a problem when you apply the brakes while stopping. I agree that the right rear is a bit light and that the overall front weight is a little on the side heavy, probably why it doesn’t do wheel-stands. A 1/4 of a flat makes a difference, don’t go wild with the adjustment, a little at a time and look at the scale change, as you do it will also add weight to the FL. Three last things to mention is that: (1) the spread of the four link bars on the rear end also effects the amount of hit the tire sees. (2) be aware of the lower bar angle, shoot for about 2 degrees down at the front. (3) work with the intersect length. If the wheelbase is off it will create all kinds of issues, square it up before you do anything but still add the anti-roll when you have the time and money. Good luck and be safe. Bob | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
How much more weight on Right Rear? I can not tell you that on my altered it liked about 100 Lbs more on right rear but it had very short 4 link bars. On my car corner weight was critical because that basically steers the car if you are doing big wheelies. Since your car is not doing big wheelies you are more flexible. There is a lot of variables, traction, tire size, total weight, horsepower and four link settings. As others have said 50 Lbs sounds reasonable but you just need to try it and see. I think you will find car will be easier to drive. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
what RPM are you doing burn out if low RPM try and raise it up some | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
So here it is right here. What's happening is because of the low hp in play (sbc), the rotation of the rear end is driving the driver side rear tire into the ground (rotation of driveshaft) making more traction on left side. So to equalize traction loosen the front end on the right side. Sure, you want your corner weights the same or close relative to each other sitting still on the ground as a basic fundamental, however adjusting the spring on the front compensates for corner weights under power during the burnout. I'd loosen the right front spring, if that doesn't cure the steer in the burnout, there are several other adjustments that can be made to compensate for corner weights under power. Let us know in here and we'll touch on those too according to where this adjustment lands us.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Mike, actually that spring is all the way down. It still goes to the left a little. Guess I’ll just get use to it Brian Mollison 2009 RaceTech Dragster 2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion 2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion 2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion 2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion 2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up 2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
How many clicks are in play on the rear dampers on rebound and compression? We don't need to know how they're set but just the number of clicks available. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
There 10 on the rebound and 9 on compresson Brian Mollison 2009 RaceTech Dragster 2020 Sumerduck Dragway VA Top ET Champion 2017 Sumerduck Top ET & SSS Track Champion 2017 MAC Top ET Track Champion 2009 Sumerduck Dragway Va Top ET & IHRA SSS Track Champion 2008 IHRA Division 1 Top ET Bracket Final Runner-up 2007 Colonial Beach Dragway Top ET Track Champion | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
On the driver side,,, add one click on rebound and take one click away on compression. On the passenger side the opposite,,, take one click away on rebound and add one click on compression. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
Exactly how is that going to help? The shocks only job is to control the speed in which the suspension travels, and the suspension isn't moving during the burnout..... | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Of course it is. Take another look. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Interesting topic here, brings me to an age old issue I have always had with my car. Similar to Brian's car, it's a 5.50 SBC chassis car, 4 link strut deal with anti roll. Problem is when track conditions are good the car leaves straight with short wheelies of about 50 feet. But when traction starts to diminish, car drifts to the left while front tires are in the air. I've squared, I've added neg. preload to no avail. Maybe I need to add a little rear steer IDK. LF601 RF559 LR668 RR611 I've seen other door cars do this also, what's your thoughts? | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Before going anywhere with this be absoulutely certain that the rear end is square in the car. The corner weights look OK, although a little light on the RR. Any more than 2 flats of pre-load, or negative load, is my limit it jacks the chassis out of whack and causes other issues. Please refer to paragraph one. If the car drifts to the left WHILE the front wheels are in the air you might try lowering the right wheelie bar 1/4 more than the left. That should slightly reduce the effect of the right tire. Don't go more than 1/2, if it takes that much to straighten the car the problem is elsewhere. Rear steer is done as a last resort. BTW, 50 foot wheelies are not short. They look great but hurt the ET, plus it's a little easier to steer the car with them on the ground. Good Luck: Bob | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Negative preload is for high hp cars 1100 1200 hp up. Low hp like you have, rearend rotation controls chassis dynamics. I could fix it in a flash, although it would be a process of elimination, meaning it could be a few different things causing this phenomenon. I suspect when the left side rear damper gets warm, it develops hysteresis (slack). Pull them both off. If they're gas emulsion, when you shove the shaft into the main body it'll come back out on it's own. If one does and the other doesn't it'll be obvious the problem (gas leaked out). If there not gas emulsion you can't do any kind of rudimentary test yourself like this besides cycling both listening for air in oil, but you could just switch the driver side damper to the other side. Try it like that, might be a easy fix. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I did that a couple weeks ago when I had them off to see if I could feel anything. I swapped side to side and saw no change. BTW these are Afco Big gun shocks. Keep in mind this problem only arises when starting line conditions go south. | |||
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