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J.W. Bell / Bolt together converter
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DRR Trophy
Picture of bobalbertyjr
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Have a new J.W. Ultra Bell (HEMI)
And a BTE bolt together converter. The O.D. of the converter is 12.5.

Originally the converter came equipped with studs and 12pt. nuts, which hit the bell. Replacing them with button head bolts gained me some ( want to say over .200 but its been awhile) BTE has told me it is built to standard height.

I'm still not sure that the converter is bottoming out in the pump at installation, and with .187 clearance at the flywheel, I think that when I pull the converter back to the flywheel the .187 it is barely engaging the pump, or coming completely free of it. Just to tight inside the bell to see.

Have 13/16ths from the flexplate to the mid plate. Cant measure bell to converter at this moment.
No way to post pictures, but can text, so If your willing my number is:

NINE WON ATE , FORE OHH SEVIN , WON SEVIN WON ATE

Last piece of the puzzle to figure out on an 12 month build.
 
Posts: 36 | Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma | Registered: July 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Could you put clay or grease on the bolt heads, and then run it back into the pump as far as you can? Then you could find out if they were touching the bell at the bolts by looking for the grease or clay smeared?


Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
 
Posts: 6394 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of bobalbertyjr
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That's an idea.
I'll get it back home and check it.
About ready to bore the bell. Being a machinist has its perks.
 
Posts: 36 | Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma | Registered: July 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Bob you can text me the pix and I can post them for you if you think that would help
 
Posts: 2421 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Problem with Hemi and PG. The adapter that bolts to crank varies from one manufacture to another,or so was told. Hemi also has smaller opening in bell.
You can open bell at bottom some and still recert. I called JW on this. Will allow some more room to see and work.It is PIA with little opening they provide. I would install converter and secure in place then install trans and see how much at plate. I know on mine after giving converter guy info I had to install a 3/16 spacer to get converter in correct location.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4184 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I had to cut the starter ear off to get it in the frame rails, J.W. said that was average and wouldn't affect recert.
Have a meziere flexplate.
Sent Steve a couple of photos, BIG THANKS STEVE.
 
Posts: 36 | Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma | Registered: July 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Here are the pix of Bob's converter, JW bell and Flexplate





 
Posts: 2421 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Can you install converter w/o bell and get a measurement to pump or something that you can also measure after bell is on? It is dang sure hitting question is how much to clear.

Agree on machinist comment.Does tend to cost me at times,but hell I am not machinist I just have Bridgeport and small lather that I almost know how to use.Big enough lathe and clearance would be easy enough.

How about shortening bolts,they appear to have lot of extra thread and all you need is one past nut.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4184 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bolt converter to the flywheel, shim it verifying the converter pilot engaging the crank the correct amount. Pull the pump out of the transmission and install the pump on the converter with 125 to **187** pullout. Take a Measurement off the pump face to converter, in order to figure out how much you have to work with after converter pullout, if any. Verify everything with a straight edge off the pump face to flywheel measurement.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Bolt converter to the flywheel, shim it verifying the converter pilot engaging the crank the correct amount. Pull the pump out of the transmission and install the pump on the converter with 125 to **187** pullout. Take a Measurement off the pump face to converter, in order to figure out how much you have to work with after converter pullout, if any. Verify everything with a straight edge off the pump face to flywheel measurement.


You could bolt the bell to the pump and engine after it is done in this fashion to verify everything is perfect.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Any you just put the converter into trans with bell on and see if it is hitting bell before it bottoms out without booting it to motor? This would tell you if it is going back all the way.
 
Posts: 2591 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This deal is so tight clearance wise there is no seeing. Going to have to be measurements and faith.
I'm looking at all ideas and options. Phone calls to be made, I'm to the point of tired of working on it, and want to make a lap.
 
Posts: 36 | Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma | Registered: July 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pull the pump and split it. Bolt the half with the gears to the bell with nuts and bolts with the converter bolted to the flywheel. Then bolt the bell to the engine. You'll be able to see exactly how much the converter drive engages the tongs on the pump gears for your .187 pullout after setting the converter pilot to crank depth perfect. Once it is all bolted in slide the gears over the converter drive. Once everything is perfect (converter pullout and converter pin to crank depth) use a flywheel tool to spin the engine and converter to check converter to bell clearance. Remove the pump gears before you spin the engine and converter.

Bolt the converter to the flywheel to start with no washers so it all goes together first try. You'll be able to see when you install the pump gears what you'll need for washers for the .187 pullout. One hour you'll know exactly what it needs.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well you could do what I said along with the grease idea with trans on floor to see if it is bottoming out on the pump and if so then measure from front of bell to front of converter then do the same with motor and flexplate. Math doesn’t lie if done correctly.
 
Posts: 2591 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Pull the pump and split it. Bolt the half with the gears to the bell with nuts and bolts with the converter bolted to the flywheel. Then bolt the bell to the engine. You'll be able to see exactly how much the converter drive engages the tongs on the pump gears for your .187 pullout after setting the converter pilot to crank depth perfect. Once it is all bolted in slide the gears over the converter drive. Once everything is perfect (converter pullout and converter pin to crank depth) use a flywheel tool to spin the engine and converter to check converter to bell clearance. Remove the pump gears before you spin the engine and converter.

Bolt the converter to the flywheel to start with no washers so it all goes together first try. You'll be able to see when you install the pump gears what you'll need for washers for the .187 pullout. One hour you'll know exactly what it needs.


^^^^THIS^^^^

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Physically there isn't enough room inside this jw bell. Either replace the bell with something else, or replace my converter. Bell the cheaper of the two options. Anyone know of a can style bell that works in this manner?
 
Posts: 36 | Location: Broken Arrow Oklahoma | Registered: July 16, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Browell


Colby
'07 Cobalt
 
Posts: 7 | Location: Noble, OK | Registered: June 18, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Does that bell bolt to a torqueflite or something else?


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5304 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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