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Dragster goes right at hit.
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DRR S/Pro
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Hi David..
I might have missed it but how old are the tires? Better yet, how many runs?


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4488 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Footloose
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Dave I would try just 20 lbs. moved to see.
 
Posts: 1921 | Location: in a van down buy the river | Registered: September 07, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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I asked about the bar because an off center bar will drag the car one way if set high but it will cause the car to “squirt” the other way if it’s low enough to be used as a wheel speed enhancer. Obviously not your problem if it wasn’t installed yet.

With the bow, 7” sounds like a pretty decent starting point for that bar length. Can you get it bowed up and front end jacked up in the shop to see how high it will be? It will probably go higher than that but gives you an idea anyway. For me, it always went higher than I expected.

On the right turn deal. Does it squirt that way or gradually wander right? Can you get a good video from directly behind the car?
 
Posts: 928 | Location: my own little world | Registered: July 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
quote:
Originally posted by B KING:
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:

Never had this issue until now. The only changes made over the winter was moving 30 lbs from just in front of foot box to extreme nose of car in attempt to stop carrying the wheels.

Suggestions??

Dave


Suggestion, if the only change was the weight move. I would move the weight back in front of the foot box. It would tell you if that was the cause.


That is my thought also.. Although I really don't see a reason that would cause it to drive right.
Hopefully I can get the wheely bar set quickly without a lot of jacking around.

With the front end coming up so high it has caused me a bunch of round losses. And this was before it started going right.

Dave


How fast is the car?

Have you tried adjusting the shock, tightening the extension? (may need to re-valve that shock also) Also a stiffer spring may help. Moving the weight helped and hurt, before it was helping to keep the car from pivoting as designed, up front it doesn't and just make it worse once the shock reaches full extension by upsetting the chassis in the rear due to the added weight.

I'd say you need to work with the shock/ spring and placing weight as needed. The wheelie bar is a wild card with this chassis IMO. If you can set it low enough to keep the front wheels on the ground without upsetting the rear tires then you got something. I think the key will slowing down/controlling the shock extension enough to allow the wheelie bar to keep the front end low enough without upsetting the rear tires so a longer and more flexible wheelie bar may help vs a shorter stiffer one.

I have a four link dragster, when the air and track are good and I use a 125 shot of NOS it will pick up front wheels and carry them a good 30 feet out about 6" high, it tends to go right when it does this just after the hit. I have never messed with it to try to correct it since these 3 conditions don't normally occur much and the front end comes down well before the car gets out of the grove. The easy fix would be to turn on the NOS a little later after the launch.
 
Posts: 2149 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by TOP38:
How fast is the car?

Have you tried adjusting the shock, tightening the extension? (may need to re-valve that shock also) Also a stiffer spring may help. Moving the weight helped and hurt, before it was helping to keep the car from pivoting as designed, up front it doesn't and just make it worse once the shock reaches full extension by upsetting the chassis in the rear due to the added weight.

I'd say you need to work with the shock/ spring and placing weight as needed. The wheelie bar is a wild card with this chassis IMO. If you can set it low enough to keep the front wheels on the ground without upsetting the rear tires then you got something. I think the key will slowing down/controlling the shock extension enough to allow the wheelie bar to keep the front end low enough without upsetting the rear tires so a longer and more flexible wheelie bar may help vs a shorter stiffer one.

I have a four link dragster, when the air and track are good and I use a 125 shot of NOS it will pick up front wheels and carry them a good 30 feet out about 6" high, it tends to go right when it does this just after the hit. I have never messed with it to try to correct it since these 3 conditions don't normally occur much and the front end comes down well before the car gets out of the grove. The easy fix would be to turn on the NOS a little later after the launch.


Car has ran a best 4.32 with a .991 sixty.
To be honest I haven't touched the shocks/springs since I got the car to launch without whipping the front end up. Originally the shocks were set loose on extension and it would launch like the front half of the car was hinged. Another description is car would bow up and move out about 5 feet then front would whip up.
I tightened the shocks to full tight extension and then it launched more or less like a slip joint car.
Shocks are Santhuff, I measured the springs and they are where I initially set them so they are not sagging.
I'll pull the shocks off and see how they work when settings are changed (cave man in the garage test), also I'll give them a call..
Ronnie Santhuff sold the business several years ago but I see him when the South East Gassers come to the track for their series.

Next race is in another week so I'll see what happens.

Thanks

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
quote:
Originally posted by TOP38:
How fast is the car?

Have you tried adjusting the shock, tightening the extension? (may need to re-valve that shock also) Also a stiffer spring may help. Moving the weight helped and hurt, before it was helping to keep the car from pivoting as designed, up front it doesn't and just make it worse once the shock reaches full extension by upsetting the chassis in the rear due to the added weight.

I'd say you need to work with the shock/ spring and placing weight as needed. The wheelie bar is a wild card with this chassis IMO. If you can set it low enough to keep the front wheels on the ground without upsetting the rear tires then you got something. I think the key will slowing down/controlling the shock extension enough to allow the wheelie bar to keep the front end low enough without upsetting the rear tires so a longer and more flexible wheelie bar may help vs a shorter stiffer one.

I have a four link dragster, when the air and track are good and I use a 125 shot of NOS it will pick up front wheels and carry them a good 30 feet out about 6" high, it tends to go right when it does this just after the hit. I have never messed with it to try to correct it since these 3 conditions don't normally occur much and the front end comes down well before the car gets out of the grove. The easy fix would be to turn on the NOS a little later after the launch.


Car has ran a best 4.32 with a .991 sixty.
To be honest I haven't touched the shocks/springs since I got the car to launch without whipping the front end up. Originally the shocks were set loose on extension and it would launch like the front half of the car was hinged. Another description is car would bow up and move out about 5 feet then front would whip up.
I tightened the shocks to full tight extension and then it launched more or less like a slip joint car.
Shocks are Santhuff, I measured the springs and they are where I initially set them so they are not sagging.
I'll pull the shocks off and see how they work when settings are changed (cave man in the garage test), also I'll give them a call..
Ronnie Santhuff sold the business several years ago but I see him when the South East Gassers come to the track for their series.

Next race is in another week so I'll see what happens.

Thanks

Dave


One thing to keep in mind, as you tighten up the shock on extension it will act more and more like a hardtail car which I don't think is a bad thing but no matter what, the car needs to be balanced weight wise. If you remove the fact of where it hinges, hell put a solid rod there, if the front end is too light for your combo then it has no choice but to go up at the hit. Even with a wheelie bar the front can't be too light, if it is it will smack the bar too hard and upset the chassis/tires! Weigh the front of the car when you go to the track.

On your spring, I was not looking at where you have it set, makes sense to adjust to get a level ride height with you in the car, what I was getting at was spring stiffness, a stiffer spring looses its stored energy faster which may help keep the nose down.
 
Posts: 2149 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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I understand what you are saying. Car was originally built to run a Blown BBC, likely with a lot more blower than I'm running. It is also set up suspension wise according to Yancer and I also talked to one of his customers that won a championship in a Yance car. Not saying either of this info is relevant, just info.
Car has always worked very well until this season when suddenly it wants to go to the right.
As to the spring, not saying what I wrote is what the car necessarily wants or need, it is just what was recommended, by Yancer.
As to weighing the front of the car I have scales in the shop so that will not be an issue, but after moving the weight to where it is now, I'd be concerned it could make it worse to add more..lol
I don't mind spending money to fix this issue, just don't want to diagnose by replacing parts..

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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Unlike most cars with yours and with all the power you have I would try to set it up so it is using almost every bit of suspension with out topping out. Have that suspension absorb as much of the wheelie as possible so it does not upset tire. Also with that type suspension if wheelie bar is too low it will limit suspension travel.
Still that does not address the dragster going to the right. Quick easy like others have said swap rear tires and work with staggered air pressure.
Really check for cracks in tubing and anything loose or worn on bushings.


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Posts: 3999 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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Car was a lot worse when suspension was set up soft..
I put the wheelie bar on then jacked up the car where it pivots until it started lifting the car. Then set wheelie bar at 4 inches off the ground. When I removed the jack the wheelie bar only raised 1/2 inch.
I'm going to try swapping the tires side to side and go from there. Of course I'll play with air pressure after that.

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty:
dave here is another W A G if the weight you moved is not precisely in center maybe it is pulling you to one side.compensate with a slight rear steer,it wont affect you with wheels down.remeber it steers like a forklift from rear


Rusty the weight is dead nuts centered..

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by mrperf:
in the good ole days when a fed or red engine dragster wanted to go right we just put a 1/2 pound more air in the right tire.



My next go to tune..

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Only Yancer I could find. Topping out?



Similar, only mine is a dual shock. Question. If the front end is a couple of feet in the air, how would topping the shock out cause it to drive right?
I could see that as an issue if the shocks were at the rear of the car, but mine is like a hard tail from the front motor plate back.

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
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quote:
Originally posted by Top355x:
I would check chassis really close for cracks also check ear end mounting hardware but other thing I would try is air tires up to like twenty pounds and check circumference


Did that. Only 1/8 inch difference..

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3306 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Posts: 387 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David Covey:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Only Yancer I could find. Topping out?



Similar, only mine is a dual shock. Question. If the front end is a couple of feet in the air, how would topping the shock out cause it to drive right?
I could see that as an issue if the shocks were at the rear of the car, but mine is like a hard tail from the front motor plate back.

Dave


Without looking at the design. I'd say the torque rotation of the engine, If you put weight on the nose a natural adjustment would be to tighten the rebound. It could be if you tighten the rebound, it may solve going to the right. Good luck!

Nice car BTW
 
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