Ok first little back history.Might make answer better with inf po

The starter on car is older and needs replacement I know dumba$$ should have already done so. Was working fine last used. I have made changes since.
Car now has litle less compression,harder to understand issue,

Went to check starter yesterday it was real low spin.Found ground loose corrected. Better nut still drags and after cpl seconds gets stupid slow.
Cables are 0 gauge.Battery is 16volt shows fully charged.

motor used to spin like plugs out now with plugs out it spins like plugs in and 16:1 instead of 12!1 it with the plugs out.

Ideas other than buy new starter.Going to order one. Need to amke runs this weekend soince two T-N-T and local bracket race in 4 day period.Cheap testing and little racing.Not w/o starter.

Ideas?

First things first>> Battery is up....
Second, Perform voltage drop test at the starter
While cranking. Record voltage. Make sure all accessory's are off also Like FP/WP/fan while doing the test.

Try a local rebuilder to see if they can rebuild it before you order a new one, but a 16 volt isn't going to give you a long amount of cranking.

Do you have the flexibility of borrowing one from a friend.

quote:

Originally posted by Canted Valve:
Do you have the flexibility of borrowing one from a friend.

Flexable as ----. Well on borrowing one, moving not so much. All of my friends have tractors not race cars. Plus mine 9 pitch with 139 flywheel. Most of guyss I know around here that bracket race other.

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
Try a local rebuilder to see if they can rebuild it before you order a new one, but a 16 volt isn't going to give you a long amount of cranking.

Why not going to give long amount? Asking for knowledge. It has always been great about cranking. Have fired it off 6 or 7 times in drive and it spun its butt off.

Going to dbl check voltage for any drop. Battery fully charged. Don't have any accessories except trans cooler fan

will update as to what if anything I find. Had to finish a set of headers so not able to mess with toy. Sucks because I wanted to get a bunch of hits in this weekend.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
Try a local rebuilder to see if they can rebuild it before you order a new one, but a 16 volt isn't going to give you a long amount of cranking.

Why not going to give long amount? Asking for knowledge. It has always been great about cranking. Have fired it off 6 or 7 times in drive and it spun its butt off.

Going to dbl check voltage for any drop. Battery fully charged. Don't have any accessories except trans cooler fan

will update as to what if anything I find. Had to finish a set of headers so not able to mess with toy. Sucks because I wanted to get a bunch of hits in this weekend.

The 16 volt spins it over FASTER but it will not spin it as long before it goes dead. Similar overall power but it dumps it quicker. I guess 800 Cold Cranking amps or what ever it is may mean up to 4 minutes of cranking at 600 RPM (16 volt) or 6 minutes of cranking at 400 RPM 12 Volt). (those numbers are just guess) Do not know actual time but I know that 16 volt spins it over faster and goes dead faster under full load. The total amount of stored energy in the battery is similar, the difference is how fast it dumps it.

I would also say that a good battery (12 or 16 Volt) will start it just fine as long as grounds and everything else is good.

Unless you are using something weird, go to parts store and get a starter for a 318 Dakota (mini starter). That is all I've used since I dumped the original "big" starter on my mopars.
Same one on a 15-1 and then blower motor.

Dave

EDIT: It's on 16 volt now, works like a champ.

What Curly1 said, is right regarding 16V cranking time.

Basically more cells in the same size battery to make it 16v instead of 12v. (at 2.1v each).

16v battery won't crank its way down to 12v and still crank.

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
Unless you are using something weird, go to parts store and get a starter for a 318 Dakota (mini starter). That is all I've used since I dumped the original "big" starter on my mopars.
Same one on a 15-1 and then blower motor.

Dave

EDIT: It's on 16 volt now, works like a champ.

Me something wierd.Kn barely got that out. Hell I don't have not weird. In this case the block is custom madce to fit opening I had to cut into block for starter.Unlime KB TFX does not have cut out for starter. One change was from right sided to left side in more traditional for Hemi location.Other side worked bu was below block and require oil pan mod and stater had to be removed to drop pan.

Left side onyl required 3 blocks to fit right to mesh with flywheel. Then rotated into 3 or 4 posiotions to clear headers,temp sensor,drag link and chassis.Simple peace of cake.I told myself when started that project. DUMBA$$. LOL

trying to amke sure not something stupid before dropping 5oo bucks on new one.

Freaking hate missing this weekend everything was in perfect o0rder except car and onlyt one to blame.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
Unless you are using something weird, go to parts store and get a starter for a 318 Dakota (mini starter). That is all I've used since I dumped the original "big" starter on my mopars.
Same one on a 15-1 and then blower motor.

Dave

EDIT: It's on 16 volt now, works like a champ.

Me something wierd.Kn barely got that out. Hell I don't have not weird. In this case the block is custom madce to fit opening I had to cut into block for starter.Unlime KB TFX does not have cut out for starter. One change was from right sided to left side in more traditional for Hemi location.Other side worked bu was below block and require oil pan mod and stater had to be removed to drop pan.

Left side onyl required 3 blocks to fit right to mesh with flywheel. Then rotated into 3 or 4 posiotions to clear headers,temp sensor,drag link and chassis.Simple peace of cake.I told myself when started that project. DUMBA$$. LOL

trying to amke sure not something stupid before dropping 5oo bucks on new one.

Freaking hate missing this weekend everything was in perfect o0rder except car and onlyt one to blame.

OK.. You are officially weird.. Or weirder..

Dave

call me Bocephus I drink wiskey by the gallon(ok quart now days) and never back down from a challenge. LMAO

No did not instal starter after a quart either. You can all kiss my a$$ with reply;s on that. Just cutting them off early

Ok fixed.

took about 2 minute after brain **** cleared the room.

I had also rlocated ground wire and connected to same point but oppisite side . Motor where it bolts to clamp bracket at chassis. Seems paint was cause HA connection. I moved to a chassis bolt and it spins bormal.

Down side. I delayed getting cpl other tiems done because of thie and I had to finish a set of zoomies for another member. Well got to make it before you spend it.Normally.

Now to find out what the hell is wrong that is keeping me aways from runs. It is little scary that everytime I get this thing ready to go play something happens. EIther scheduling, parts,some lite something stupid(fine example) or work.

So now driveway tune and maybe go saturday.Figure if bracket race I jknow I will get three runs.TT,RD1 and buy back at worst case. Talking maybe 100 to 150 if nothing stupid. Hell only 36 mile round trip so what 40 bucks at todays prices. NLMAO.

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
Unless you are using something weird, go to parts store and get a starter for a 318 Dakota (mini starter). That is all I've used since I dumped the original "big" starter on my mopars.
Same one on a 15-1 and then blower motor.

Dave

EDIT: It's on 16 volt now, works like a champ.

Me something wierd.Kn barely got that out. Hell I don't have not weird. In this case the block is custom madce to fit opening I had to cut into block for starter.Unlime KB TFX does not have cut out for starter. One change was from right sided to left side in more traditional for Hemi location.Other side worked bu was below block and require oil pan mod and stater had to be removed to drop pan.

Left side onyl required 3 blocks to fit right to mesh with flywheel. Then rotated into 3 or 4 posiotions to clear headers,temp sensor,drag link and chassis.Simple peace of cake.I told myself when started that project. DUMBA$$. LOL

trying to amke sure not something stupid before dropping 5oo bucks on new one.

Freaking hate missing this weekend everything was in perfect o0rder except car and onlyt one to blame.

OK.. You are officially weird.. Or weirder..

Dave

Hell even VC studs had to be custom made to fit the Mag. VC's I got from JFR/ Nobodys makes a 1/4" stud the length needed.