Added new shocks, switched to Hoosier tires and added beadlocks over the winter. 1st couple passes was getting some shake from driving over the tire. I lowered air pressure and lowered the wheelie bars and it helped but still beating up the tires. I think I'm getting close, it will be super consistent for 3 or 4 passes then it'll loose 200rpm wheel/driveshaft speed and slow down .02. I think I still need to have less bite in the tire. The car seems to be working pretty well just a little too much wrap/bite. Four link IC is set at 60.399" out 6.791 up 66.8% anti squat lower bar angle -1.16* . The next setting is IC 55.277 10.196 up 109.6% anti squat lower bar angle + .75", is this the right way or would that make it worse? I could lower the ride height in the rear to kind of split the difference between the 2 settings.
Wheelie bars are 70" and set 5.75" to center of the wheels. The car weighs 2400lb with me in it 50/50 weight split 33x15x15 slicks 1.80 glide 4.86 gear. I'm pulling 8 degrees for the 1st second. Also thinking of going to a 1.69 low gear next time I freshen the trans.
I have lowered the bars since this video helping slightly. 1st video bars where 6.375 and 7 psi air pressure.

https://youtu.be/agQhjWQg2R0

https://youtu.be/XEpzFQT5Tk0

Second video is not very good but has lower wheelie bar setting and 6 psi air pressure.

That thing looks great, good work man. You're starting to sound like you know what you're talking about/ what it needs. I think there's a possibility the 1.69 effects the converter in a positive way. It's in the converter now, looser or less efficient.

That tire looks a helluva lot better than it used to.

Did ya go with the little gold strange shocks, that fit your car perfect?

Or fab a new shock bar for more travel?

Looks great Inferno! Hoosier likes you to wad the tires by design. I’d pay attention to the 60 foot/time slip and not the tire. Defiantly in the right direction.

quote:

Originally posted by stk 758 BP!:
Looks great Inferno! Hoosier likes you to wad the tires by design. I’d pay attention to the 60 foot/time slip and not the tire. Defiantly in the right direction.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Nobody works at it any harder than Inferno.

Car is flying for what it is.

Lower it, split the difference.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

I put penske 8300's on it. Amazing the difference they made on a rough azz track. Think I should make that move on the 4 link? Was going to go down more on tire pressure and put all the timing back in it to try and get up on the tire quicker. Just not sure that would help enough.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I put penske 8300's on it. Amazing the difference they made on a rough azz track. Think I should make that move on the 4 link? Was going to go down more on tire pressure and put all the timing back in it to try and get up on the tire quicker. Just not sure that would help enough.

Shake is too much grip knocking the tire out of round.

Too much grip tighten compression & loosen reb, add power, less tire pressure, yeah.

Find the right mixture of all the above.

Penske's are good stuff, good deal.

I would not make the 4 link change, it will make it worse. I would put the timing back in first. You may try raising the launch rpm after putting the timing back in. Then if that does not get you where you want to be either sneak down on the bars a little more or drop the tire pressure a little more.

what are the shock settings for compression and rebound?

I would try to get the wheelie bars out of the equation. Especially if you race multiple tracks - the crown will have you chasing your settings.

With that said can you leave under full timing? That is another area I would try to work from. The timing is a bandaid to fix the problem. I did for a good while and was able to get mine resolved. Now it works on a marginal track. If I would need it at some point - its still there in the tool box.

I counted the clicks on extension and it has 74. In the 1st video it was set at 36 from tight, the 2nd was at 50 from tight(rough track had me loosening them) compression has 22 clicks and are 12 from tight. Was going to try tightening compression but didn't get that far.
Front struts full tight.

quote:

Originally posted by 50fordsst:
what are the shock settings for compression and rebound?

I have to use the bars or it will wheelie really bad. Maybe I need to do something else to stop that.
I can launch it at full timing, I pulled the timing last fall thinking it was shaking from spin, it smoothed it out enough to race and was quickest it had been. My logger wasn't working so didn't realize it was actually shacking from trying to dead hook, so all I accomplished was killing it enough to dead hook it and not drive over the tire.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
I would try to get the wheelie bars out of the equation. Especially if you race multiple tracks - the crown will have you chasing your settings.

With that said can you leave under full timing? That is another area I would try to work from. The timing is a bandaid to fix the problem. I did for a good while and was able to get mine resolved. Now it works on a marginal track. If I would need it at some point - its still there in the tool box.

So plan for this week is full timing, lower air some more and possibly raise launch up from current 4700.
Thanks for suggestions and keep them coming.

strange recommendations are stiff extension and soft compression on 4 link and just the opposite for ladder bar. On friends 68 camaro 4 link with 1100 hp worked best at 7e/4comp. with 110 pound spring 2500# car. Best run 7.90 and 172. Shock are Strange with 10 settings each.Looks like you are close to 50/50. Looks like with your shocks on 4 link should be 75% rebound 25 to 30% compression. By Strange recomendations. Just my 2 cents

Also his 4 link bar intersect point at 46" long very close to instant center.

Interesting how different companies have different ways of doing things. My shock guy says loosen extension and tighten compression to get more wheel speed.
Thanks for posting.

quote:

Originally posted by 50fordsst:
strange recommendations are stiff extension and soft compression on 4 link and just the opposite for ladder bar. On friends 68 camaro 4 link with 1100 hp worked best at 7e/4comp. with 110 pound spring 2500# car. Best run 7.90 and 172. Shock are Strange with 10 settings each.Looks like you are close to 50/50. Looks like with your shocks on 4 link should be 75% rebound 25 to 30% compression. By Strange recomendations. Just my 2 cents

Sorry. Our goal is to get best hook for reation time and consistency. Any wheel spin kills all.

quote:

My shock guy says loosen extension and tighten compression to get more wheel speed.

Interesting.

Is this not what you do?
He says to add bite loosen compression so it will squat and hold it there by stiffening ext.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

My shock guy says loosen extension and tighten compression to get more wheel speed.

Interesting.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
Is this not what you do?
He says to add bite loosen compression so it will squat and hold it there by stiffening ext.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

My shock guy says loosen extension and tighten compression to get more wheel speed.

Interesting.

You'd have to run the wheely bar real low to take that approach. Wheely bar low, tire pressure on high side. It'll use the wheely bar to get the tire speed up.

Loose compression setting, tight rebound. You could try it.

Do you have double adjustable on front Inferno?