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Alky Warm-up and End of Day Procedures
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DRR Sportsman
Picture of bcMOD3X3X
posted
Getting ready to get back to the track and wanted to get peoples input on alcohol combinations morning warm-up procedures and end of the day procedures, so that I can try and better my procedures to help keep the oil clean.

With my old car and set up, I use to warm the car up to about 160 first thing in the morning and then wait until they called first round of time trials. I would always try to stage the car around 160. At the end of the day, I would generally load the car into the trailer after the motor had cooled. I do understand that my old way of doing things wasn't the right/best way to keep the oil clean.

SBC, Alky, Brad Penn - 10w-40
 
Posts: 167 | Location: Oxford,MI | Registered: July 13, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
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Injection or carb?


272" Spitzer
Rolla Competition Engines 540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
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Posts: 2546 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of bcMOD3X3X
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carb
 
Posts: 167 | Location: Oxford,MI | Registered: July 13, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I'd definitely advise a vacuum pump to keep oil clean - I go 60+ runs between oil changes (7.20's 584ci dragster with a Terminator). I also stage it at 160 and when I'm done for the day I try to let it get a little hotter then usual (180ish) before I put it away.


Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com
 
Posts: 254 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: February 26, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Lenny5160
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I just let the cars idle in the pits while I set tire pressure until they get to 170-180 depending on how soon I'll be running.

With the carbureted car I go into the burnout at 170. The injected car I run at 160.

The carbureted car, at the end of the day I like to get the water temp over 200, shut it off and pull the breathers to let the alky steam out. This car does not have a vac pump.

The injected car has a vac pump and a Primer Plus, both of which help keep the oil clean. I don't do anything different at the end of the day. Come back from the last pass and shut it off.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 2426 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of rs72z
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I get my injected sbc up to 180 ish at the start of the day and up to 200 at the end day. I run a electric vacuum pump to pull any moisture out and never have any milking problems. I also have a primer that i warm the car up on and run it for a few minutes before shut down.
 
Posts: 107 | Location: texas | Registered: November 13, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Curly1
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I warm my car up to about 175 at start of day. I try to go not burnout box at 160.

Now at end of day it is important to open your lean out valve and get water temp up over 200-220* to evaporate the moisture out.


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Posts: 1192 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Always put it away hot! If you don't run a vac pump then take off the valve cover breathers. Don't let it cool and then start it to put it in the trailer! If you have a primer plus system, even better, run it on gas to build some heat and put it away.

Alky boils at 148 so although related, oil temp is more important than water temp!
 
Posts: 1205 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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SBC on alky here. First warm up I footbrake it on the converter to 180 to heat soak it. End of the day I leave the heat in it and pull the valve cover breathers.
 
Posts: 475 | Location: here | Registered: February 12, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Here's what we do with our terminator injected cars. Beginning of the day we warm them up on jackstands on gas primer. Have the wheels spinning in low gear then in high gear. I get the water temp up to 180 on gas, then turn on the fan. Then I switch the system over to alcohol and make sure it sounds good and snaps clean, then check the idle in low gear (for staging) and adjust if necessary. The reason I get it to 180 before changing to alcohol and completing the rest of the warm up is to try to get heat in the oil as Al mentioned. I can usually get the oil to around 140 using this procedure.

I have the barrel valves set up on the lean side so it builds good heat but is also controlled with the fan. I go into the water box at 165/170 and turn the fan on. I'm 180 coming back from a run.

At the end of the day I'll switch over to gas half way back to the trailer, and let it idle for a minute or so on gas once I get back. I usually also turn the fan off and let the water temp get to 200, again trying to get/keep the oil hot.

That's how we do it and the oil always looks good.
 
Posts: 104 | Location: Upstate NY | Registered: July 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of bcMOD3X3X
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I do have an EVAC set up on the car. -12AN braided line running from valve covers to the collector.

Thank you for the input! I'm going to start warming the water temp up to 180 in the morning and try to hit the water box at about 165/170. Then at the end of the day I will warm it up to about 200 and put it away for the night.
 
Posts: 167 | Location: Oxford,MI | Registered: July 13, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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If you are putting your car in a trailer at the end of the day, remove any fill caps or hoses off of valve cover and vacuum pump. It will let the steam and moister out and will also help keep the oil dry.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 183 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I used an oil pan heater on mine, I like to see the oil over 100 degrees before I fire it the first time. Warm it up to about 200+ and shut it off and let it heat soak. I like to stage between 180-190. I use a thermostat with a few small holes in it to help maintain heat and keep the water circulating. I installed an oil temp censor and it showed me that it takes a good bit of effort to get the oil up to temp. Before the oil pan heater it would take 2-3 passes before the oil would be up to 170-180 range.


Bill Simpkins
74 Nova
SBC 406
3240 pounds
Speierracing heads

60 1.29 (10/15)
1/8 6.06@111 (11/15)
Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013


nova

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Posts: 1530 | Location: San Angelo | Registered: March 07, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I have always warmed car up on stand run thru gears,check trans bake and normally at about 4 minutes its right at 180.If not lean it till it is,Shut it off and sit her on the ground.

End of day hopefully after getting back from winners circle pictures. Let it run till about 200 and load her up letting it breathe. Never had a vacuum pump till cpl mohts ago and have not run yet. Probably still do same or very close to it.


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Posts: 1377 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of J178RED
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quote:
Originally posted by banjo:
I used an oil pan heater on mine, I like to see the oil over 100 degrees before I fire it the first time.


hey Banjo , are you using a diaper too....


HAVE THEY CALLED US YET ? THEY HAVE!!!
 
Posts: 2146 | Location: OLD NICK OUT ON THE TRACK OR IN THE DESERT | Registered: March 09, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of banjo
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Yes sir. I use a plumbers pad between the oil pan heater and the diaper. Had it this way for the last several years and never had any issues


Bill Simpkins
74 Nova
SBC 406
3240 pounds
Speierracing heads

60 1.29 (10/15)
1/8 6.06@111 (11/15)
Best 9.87@131 on the rev limitor 1 Feb 2013


nova

quarterpanelview

wheelie

FTI Converter
www.speierracingheads.com

Calling out the hypocrisy and offering truth and fact to individuals claiming to offer 1st hand experience and advice based on track proven performance, on the web since 1998

 
Posts: 1530 | Location: San Angelo | Registered: March 07, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of J178RED
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quote:
Originally posted by banjo:
Yes sir. I use a plumbers pad between the oil pan heater and the diaper. Had it this way for the last several years and never had any issues


Thx Banjo....


HAVE THEY CALLED US YET ? THEY HAVE!!!
 
Posts: 2146 | Location: OLD NICK OUT ON THE TRACK OR IN THE DESERT | Registered: March 09, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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quote:
Originally posted by banjo:
Yes sir. I use a plumbers pad between the oil pan heater and the diaper. Had it this way for the last several years and never had any issues


Whats a plumbers pad? I have 1/2 gap between my pan heater at the absorbent pad in my belly pan and it melts if I dont drop the pan down on 1 side
 
Posts: 499 | Location: On the the dark side now | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Steve check this link out.,,


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O...gid=pla-312761049257


HAVE THEY CALLED US YET ? THEY HAVE!!!
 
Posts: 2146 | Location: OLD NICK OUT ON THE TRACK OR IN THE DESERT | Registered: March 09, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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quote:
Originally posted by J178RED:
Steve check this link out.,,


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O...gid=pla-312761049257


Just what the doctor ordered, thanks!!!
 
Posts: 499 | Location: On the the dark side now | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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