I have a blown alcohol top dragster.
The converter is a bolt together aluminum/steel PTC, that has been to BTE for the large input shaft upgrade.

I'm in the late stages of converting from a Chevrolet big block, to a Chrysler hemi.

The latest "issue" is the flex plate converter starter.
I have a Stage 4 Kieth Black block, (solid / cast)
and a JW ultra bell and case.

The block has provisions for a OEM style starter, and the bell has the additional provision for a Hitachi type starter.

The GM converter, utilizes both the large and small patterns, for a total of 6 mounting bolts from flex plate to converter.

The crankshaft is a Bryant 8 bolt flange.

Need to order a flex plate in the next couple of weeks, so that when the rods I ordered show up, the rotating assembly can go directly to balance.

Have called, messaged, and e-mailed a couple different manufacturer's. Some have replied, nothing from others. But all have been vague.

I can text or email pictures of the converter, but no host to post here. 407-1718 , and that's area 918.

What are your thoughts, experience?

Since you already have the JW bell and case, just order their (JW) flywheel. They call it the "wheel". It comes with an adapter for between the flywheel and the crank and also shims for the Chrysler starter along with new crank bolts.
Mount the starter in the stock location, your done.

JW's reply

Unfortunately the way that cover is designed I do not think will work with the 130 tooth Chrysler ring gear. Not sure if there is sufficient material present to machine away for adequate clearance.

So you are talking about machining the convertor cover?
Why would that be different?

Sorry, I'm missing something.

I don't understand it myself.
But that's what they told me.

Hhmmm,
If you were closer I'd give you one of my old JW wheels to try to mock up.
I've never had to machine the convertor cover OR the flywheel to make it work.

I run a big shaft Chevy converter behind my hemi and just use the JW stuff.
No machining or anything.

Sorry, I'm out of ideas except maybe see if you can find someone with an old JW wheel and lay it on your convertor to mock it up.

Messaged Summit after posting this, and this was their reply (which was very quick I might add)

This would be the flexplate,

https://www.summitracing.com/p.../overview/make/dodge

And starter, https://www.summitracing.com/p.../overview/make/dodge

I wish you were closer too lol.
I'd take you up on the offer.
Any chance you could photograph the area we are discussing?
Northeastern Oklahoma isn't exactly a hot bed of hemi stuff.

BTE's reply:

We offer a variety of standard flexplates, but for something special like this, we generally recommend Meziere - they have billet and custom options that will suit this application better.

Www.meziere.com talk with Jerry and he will help you. Guy knows his stuff!

The flexplates I have look just like the pictures from Summit and Meziere.
I've used JW, and ATI, they were pretty much the same EXCEPT for how they bolt to the crank. JW has an adapter BETWEEN the flexplate and the crank, the ATI flexplate has the adapter between the flexplate and convertor. Both work very well.

My question is what are they saying needs to be machined or what is special???

Maybe, just a thought, order the ATI from Summit and see how it fits, if there is an issue you can always send it back with little cost.

I'm curious what the issue could be. I've been running powerglides behind Chryslers since the late 90's with ALOT of different convertors and have never had an issue. My current converter is a 10 1/2 inch behind my hemi and everything fits fine. JW Wheel, using their starter shims for my over the counter Hitachi starter, bolted directly to the JW Ultra Bell.

One thing, I would get a one piece Billet Flexplate.
Let me know how you make out.

Meziere and ATI I'm still awaiting replies from.

I can't imagine my converter is any, or at least that much different from what everyone else is using.
The flexplate side is pretty much flat, save for the pilot.
It's a 10.5"

The BBM/Hemi are the most difficult platform to get the starter/flexplate set up on. The biggest issue is most of the aftermarket blocks were never really designed to have a starter mounted up to them. So everyone has tried and done something different to mount one over the last 30+ years. The other issue is the stock Mopar automatics never came with a flexplate with a ring gear the ring gear was mounted to the converter.

The ultra bell and Reid cases are designed to use a stock 130 tooth gear flexplate and starter mounting location. The 130 tooth gear posses a couple of problems, First is it forces you to mount the starter really close to the block. This often requires you to grind the block webbing to make clearance for the starter the other issue is you really can't run a 11.5" converter pattern. To compound the issue BBM and Hemi’s have different crank flange designs and the hemi’s have two different crank flange lengths.

What some people have done to get around this is using the larger Chevy 168 tooth ring gear. This requires pushing the starter out and modifying the bell housing or rotating the starter down below the bell housing and mounting the starter to the midplate. It would be great is Read or ATI offered bell housings for the 168 tooth gear and starter location.
Some Hemi blocks like the brad and AJ blocks are coming with starter mounting pads like the Chevy blocks. However it seems they have left it to the machine shops to drill and tap them. So again we are getting a lot of different approaches. We have worked with Brad and it seems they are starting to drill the starter pads so we have some starter’s designs that the PRO-MOD teams are using.

For the OP he will likely need our FPS048 130 tooth flexplate. He will need to measure how far his crank flange is from the back of the block. If it measures around .310” he will need our TST406H starter. If it measures around .700” he will need the TSS080 starter. He will need to tell his converter guy that the flexplate is .500” thick from the crank flange surface to the converter mounting surface and that the flexplate has 6x on 10.75” converter bolt pattern. He should also let the converter guy know how thick his mid-plate is and how thick crank flange is. With this combination I would expect he will have to grind his engine block webbing for starter clearance.

If the OP has a BBM flange with the center register the above combination will not work.

You can call me at 760-746-3273 or Email me at Jerryd@meziere.com

I've been running a Tilton Mopar starter on the right side mounted to the mid-plate next to the pan on Mopars with the 130 tooth starter ring gear and a PG for over 30 years with no issues.
Don't create a problem where there isn't one.

What are you guys doing for a crank with no register on the end of it?
Anybody cut the crank flange down to create a register?

I have JW bell and their flywheel with adapter. I have fti converter and did not have to machine anything.I actually had to add a spacer between converter and fly wheel to get it where converter pulled back out .125 after being seat all the way back.

I have TFX-92 solid block that does not have cut out,but that was different issue. Running KB crank it that makes any difference.

Mopdragster,
My crank does not have a register in it.
I just use the adapter that JW supplies that goes between the crank and the flexplate.
It's centered by the 8 crank bolts, the adapter has the center hole for the convertor pilot.
Everything is snug and fits perfect.
Been doing it that way for the last 10 years or so (since I've had a blown hemi with no register on the crank).

thanks for the info Frank!
I have ran the same setup but with a regular crank with a register, just wasn't sure it would work without one.

I sent Jerry at Meziere another email with pictures last night.
See what he says.

Perfect.
He will know.