Nearly forgot another expense we are going to need. We have never had collector tethers before, where are you all getting yours from?

There is always this place as an option

https://www.collectortethers.com/

I have a set of 2inx4in Collector tethers from this site and a set from jegs Lokar brand 2-3/8x4. Both fit and work great at about the same price.

Todd P

Have a set I don't need. PM for info. Ill let them go really, really cheap.

Got mine from Jerry Bickel, $79.99 very nice pieces.

Thanks everyone. PM sent maliciousintent

I made mine. Stainless 3/16 rope cable from lowes. 4 of the t-bolt clamps from Jegs and the ends for the cables. Work just as good. probably less than 20$ in it

quote:

Originally posted by TD6297:
Nearly forgot another expense we are going to need. We have never had collector tethers before, where are you all getting yours from?

quote:

Originally posted by MorgretNation:
I made mine. Stainless 3/16 rope cable from lowes. 4 of the t-bolt clamps from Jegs and the ends for the cables. Work just as good. probably less than 20$ in it

No doubt what you've "manufactured" functions for intended purpose but, no designer label, no approval by the sanctioning gods...

(for use on many applications) Stitch welds ARE approved, and much le$$ money than "de$igner labeled" part$ package$...


Dan

Yes, I know I could weld my collectors on, but I don't really want to. And I know they would be easy to make up, but need that dopy tag to be legal. I am sure I could get by here for just T&T sessions, but prefer to have things legal to make it easier for tech.

quote:

Originally posted by TD6297:
Yes, I know I could weld my collectors on, but I don't really want to. And I know they would be easy to make up, but need that dopy tag to be legal. I am sure I could get by here for just T&T sessions, but prefer to have things legal to make it easier for tech.

You can never go wrong by doing the right thing.

You can purchase directly from us at www.CollectorTethers.com or from JEGS and Summit.

Either way we appreciate your business if you decide to do so.

Yes welding them on is also legal, but if you do so, please weld them completely as I've personally sold many sets to racers at the track who have welded them with short welds only to have them break.

Our products carry 2 patents and are backed by a 2 million dollar liability policy. As a racers you are responsible for complying with this rule and the outcome if someone is hurt because you didn't. Don't risk that for $99.

I've witnessed plenty of them which have came off. My partner Lynn Ellison even had one come off prior to the rule and hit another racer on the starting line.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I've learned a lot about this rule and our product responsibility over the past 5 years.

SL...

quote:

Originally posted by CollectorTethers.com:

As a racers you are responsible for complying with this rule and the outcome if someone is hurt because you didn't. Don't risk that for $99.

SL...

Yes Scott a more complete weld may be better than a stitch, however, welding them (per NHRA recommended weld length) IS an action that places the racer in COMPLIANCE of the rule, which I believe would dissolve the above "implied risk" in the same manner an approved parts package does...

Options, it's great we have them...


Dan

Yup - I agree you can be in compliance with a "stitch" weld like they say.

But... this racer was "forced" to buy a set at the track when their weld was found to be cracked. Just say'n. If you are going to weld them, weld them completely or you may run the risk of not being able to compete at the event. Luckily for this racer we were on the grounds and able to supply him with a set of tethers.

SL...

$99 or be sent home for a cracked weld , that's a no brainer......

I think its a matter of preference. I chose to weld mine. I really don't like the idea of placing a stainless clamp around a part that continually expands and contracts. Granted I have not heard of any issues from it I felt like a good weld was safer. I welded mine approximately half way around each tube. I did that at the time the rule started and they have been crack free since. They have survived their share of violent shake passes as well.

I get that its not an option for those with coated or chromed headers but for me it was the way to go. Switching to zoomies now so collectors will not longer be a concern for me anyway.