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Rear gear for consistency
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DRR Trophy
posted
I have a 98’ Camaro big tire car I bought turn key early this year. It was set up for nitrous but I want to bracket race it. It runs 9.60s in the 1/4 at 140 but the 60’ is only 1.45. It came with 4.11 gears and a tight converter. The guys over at ptc set me up with a new converter but I’m debating on changing the gear. The car has 14x31 tire so it’s is pretty slow off the line with that 4.11 gear. I know bracket racing is all about consistency so would you leave that gear in the car or step it up to a 4.56/4.88 gear to have it leave harder?
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Zachary | Registered: November 09, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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The more torque applied to the tires the more difficult it is to keep them from spinning. Seems pretty straight forward to me. Take care. Tom Worthington


If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong.
 
Posts: 637 | Location: Rocky Mount, NC | Registered: December 01, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom396:
The more torque applied to the tires the more difficult it is to keep them from spinning. Seems pretty straight forward to me. Take care. Tom Worthington


Seams to be straight forward but it’s not as easy or everyone would just run a tall gear so no one would have traction problem. There’s a certain amount of gear needed to make the engine consistent or so I’ve been told
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Zachary | Registered: November 09, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Fatboy81:

Seams to be straight forward but it’s not as easy or everyone would just run a tall gear so no one would have traction problem. There’s a certain amount of gear needed to make the engine consistent or so I’ve been told


You may have noticed how popular Powerglide transmissions are. Much of that has to do with less starting line gear multiplication (SLR). Personally, I am no longer a fan of high stall speed converters, either. Loose converters equal tire spin. Tight converters equal less tire spin. You pays your money, you makes your choice. Take care. Tom Worthington


If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong.
 
Posts: 637 | Location: Rocky Mount, NC | Registered: December 01, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Mike Allred
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4.56 would put engine rpm in its happy place and the converter/trans would have less temp/stall variance associated with temp changes. I think...


Mike Allred
 
Posts: 228 | Location: Fayetteville, NC | Registered: March 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Eman
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Since you're in the footbrake section I'm assuming you footbrake it. A little more gear might improve your reaction time which is just as important if not more than consistency.
 
Posts: 746 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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PTC built you a new convertor for bracket racing and a 4:11 gear. They didn't build it for a 4:56 gear. They know what their doing. Your changing your combo after they built it to spec. ?
 
Posts: 17 | Location: P.A. | Registered: February 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
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Correct. I told them I was going to have to change the gear and he said if I need to tighten or loosen the converter some that it wouldn’t be a problem
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Zachary | Registered: November 09, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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You don’t list if BBC or SBC, displacement and weight of car w/ driver going 9.60 .

If it were me, I’d leave the 4.11 gear in and try it with the new convertor. If you can achieve the desired RT and the convertor is loose enough to keep the engine rpm in the 6000 – 6200 range (sbc) after launch and ride that for a slightly longer period of time you might like it. Doesn’t cost anything to try. If not liking, make the gear change.

My car has a SLR of 6.16, 32x14, is on the convertor stall of 6100 for over 2.5 seconds, shifts to high gear at 5 seconds 7000 rpm and is consistent. I can leave on the bottom bulb blinding the tree and achieve .015 or better rt with a TB. 1.48 - 60’ times.
 
Posts: 1111 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Bad Nusz
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I concur with what Tom said about avoiding wheel spin. Unless you're sure you can spin the same on every launch. I would say avoid spin at all costs.
Anything other than 'dead hooking' on every pass will give you inconsistent 60' times. And if your 60' times are not consistent, then your 1/4-mile times will be way off.

In my opinion, FWIW, insuring excellent traction is perhaps the first thing a racer should do to achieve consistency.

Lol, I found that out after several seasons of doing things the wrong way. ;^)

How are your 60's now? Within a few thousandths from pass to pass?

How is your average reaction time? Can you really leave with the bottom bulb, or do you have to 'count' the tree and anticipate the bottom light?

Eman is quite right I think in that a good reaction time is more important than consistency. A very low RT will cover a lot of dial-in errors......

With a lower gear, will you lose top speed? I would trade ET and a low 60' time for more MPH any day. I think more acceleration at the top end of the track helps throw off the other guy's finish line driving strategy.
 
Posts: 218 | Location: Sioux Falls, SD | Registered: March 17, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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